![]() There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate, and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. With this context in mind let's see what THDA might be able to do. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of THDA, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. It's definitely one of the best UV-filter agents we have today, especially in the US where new-generation Tinosorb filters are not (yet) approved. The English translation is, so far it looks like sunscreens with nanoparticles do stay on the surface of the skin where they should be.Īll in all, Titanium Dioxide is a famous sunscreen agent and for good reason, it gives broad spectrum UV protection (best at UVB and UVA II), it's highly stable, and it has a good safety profile. A 2009 review article about the safety of nanoparticles summarizes this, "to date, in-vivo and in-vitro studies have not demonstrated percutaneous penetration of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreens". ![]() But do not panic, these are concerns under investigation. ![]() Once absorbed they might form unwanted complexes with proteins and they might promote the formation of evil free radicals. The main concern with nanoparticles is that they are so tiny that they are absorbed into the skin more than we want them (ideally sunscreen should remain on the surface of the skin). The itsy-bitsy Nano-sized particles improve both spreadability and reduce the whitish tint a lot, but unfortunately, it also introduces new health concerns. The cosmetic industry is, of course, really trying to solve this problem and the best solution so far is using nanoparticles. Sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide are often hard to spread on the skin and they leave a disturbing whitish tint. The disadvantage of Titanium Dioxide is that it's not cosmetically elegant, meaning it's a white, "unspreadable" mess. Regular sized Titanium Dioxide also has a great safety profile, it's non-irritating and is pretty much free from any health concerns (like estrogenic effect worries with some chemical filters). Its protection is very good between 290 - 350 nm (UVB and UVA II range), and less good at 350-400 nm (UVA I) range. ![]() It's definitely one of the best, or probably even the best option out there for sun protection available worldwide.Īnyway, it doesn't matter if it reflects or absorbs, Titanium Dioxide is a pretty awesome sunscreen agent for two main reasons: it gives a nice broad spectrum coverage and it's highly stable. This seems to be true even if the skin is damaged, for example, sunburnt.Īll in all, if you've found a Zinc Oxide sunscreen that you are happy to use every single day, that's fantastic and we suggest you stick with it. But luckily, so far research shows that sunscreen nanoparticles are not absorbed but remain on the surface of the skin or in the uppermost (dead) layer of the skin. We wrote more about nanoparticles and the concerns around them here, but the gist is that if nanoparticles were absorbed into the skin that would be a reason for legitimate health concerns. Still, it's white and disturbing enough to use Zinc Oxide nanoparticles more and more often. Pinnell, it's slightly less white than TiO2. It leaves a disturbing whitish tint on the skin, although, according to a 2000 research paper by Dr. It's also often used to treat skin irritations such as diaper rash.Īs for the disadvantages, Zinc Oxide is also not cosmetically elegant. So much so that Zinc Oxide also counts as a skin protectant and anti-irritant. It's also highly stable and non-irritating. It protects against UVB, UVA II, and UVA I almost uniformly, and is considered to be the broadest range sunscreen available today. The first main difference is that while TiO2 gives a nice broad spectrum protection, Zinc Oxide has an even nicer and even broader spectrum protection. Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
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